Topic: Painted ball joints

[jon_k]

I was wondering if anyone has tips for painting ball joints so the paint doesn't wear off with use. I tried the superglue coat method, but I always end up with a texture I don't care for.

Thanks!

[Tamer]

They are definitely the most dreaded of custom painting things to deal with. Outside of sanding and then good prep and paint work it seems like magic to me too.

[jon_k]

They are definitely the most dreaded of custom painting things to deal with. Outside of sanding and then good prep and paint work it seems like magic to me too.

I'm not necessarily against sanding, but if it's the peg that's painted, that means cutting the whole thing out and replacing the crossbar, which is a whole other thing that can go wrong with use. Half the time I'm tempted to just not move the damn thing once it's painted.

[JDeck]

  I bought this product from microscale industries, called Micro Flat. Its used to protect decals from excessive handling. Its made of some kind of water soluable resin, I bet it would work with joints as well.
You could sand it down a little paint it, and apply the micro flat in thin coats, allow it to dry between coats. Same method as super glue, but I don't think it'll leave an unsightly texture, because its made for finished products. They make a glossy version too, it called either micro gloss or micro clear, idk something like that.  Its worth a shot, if for some reason it doesn't work, you can use it to protect the paint in other areas, as well.
https://www.scalehobbyist.com/catagories/Paint_and_Construction/micro-coat-flat/MIC00000003/product.php

[jon_k]

  I bought this product from microscale industries, called Micro Flat. Its used to protect decals from excessive handling. Its made of some kind of water soluable resin, I bet it would work with joints as well.
You could sand it down a little paint it, and apply the micro flat in thin coats, allow it to dry between coats. Same method as super glue, but I don't think it'll leave an unsightly texture, because its made for finished products. They make a glossy version too, it called either micro gloss or micro clear, idk something like that.  Its worth a shot, if for some reason it doesn't work, you can use it to protect the paint in other areas, as well.
https://www.scalehobbyist.com/catagories/Paint_and_Construction/micro-coat-flat/MIC00000003/product.php

Thanks! I'll have to add that to my wish list.

[Tamer]

Another paint for plastic I will almost swear by is Krylon Fusion Spray Paint for plastic. If you follow their prep instructions it almost seems like that paint actually "bonds" to what you are painting.

[Sjefke]

Another paint for plastic I will almost swear by is Krylon Fusion Spray Paint for plastic. If you follow their prep instructions it almost seems like that paint actually "bonds" to what you are painting.

I've  used the Krylon fusion for a couple of projects to and it does work well, but did you want to still requires some prep work such as sanding, especially the joint ring.  Cutting that down flush with the ball and sanding is usually what it takes. To get better access to the parts,
I've popped off the joints to cut and sand them. The paint has to be cured 24 hours before popping back in.

Once I think I'm done, I'm still dabbing on a touch of crazy glue applied with a tooth pick for a durable cover.

  I bought this product from microscale industries, called Micro Flat.

I may give this stuff a try.  The problem with crazy glue is that if it gets into the joint, you're screwed.

[JDeck]

  I'll try the microflat on my door gunner to see how it works. When I have the time. The BS scout shoulder has that black ring that needs to be painted. ill let you all know how well it works.

[bubbavader]

I am starting to be of the opinion of Sharpie-ing the ball joint (which is a die) and then painting the limb.  Black joints can look cool!