Topic: Production Platform Two, Outland Station

[Clonehead]

Lets see, doc, lets see!
  that makes it sound like this stuff would be tough on our precious molds and shorten their life possibly.

[DocOutlands]

Things are calming down, so I'm about to break out the photo-box...  bbiaf!

[DocOutlands]

Ask and ye shall receive...

First up, a group pic of what I cast:

[DocOutlands]

Here's the R2 head.  Remember, right now, my mold is for making a *solid* head.  I'll be working on a 2-part mold to replicate the BAD head properly soon.  I think that fleck of material is actually a piece of the mold that pulled loose.  I'm interested in trying it with a release powder to see how well that works.  It is hard to tell sitting on the gray material, but this resin is NOT milky at all, unlike the Hasbro R3 head.

[DocOutlands]

Finally, the fusion lamp.  In the second pic, you can see how the resin shrank and made a "bowl" in the base of the lamp.  I'll be making any new molds with this in mind so it doesn't become a problem.

[Reconsgt]

Very nice,,   I really like the clear R2 domes.

[spudafett]

oh man doc those are just perfect.  even better than the one's I've done in the clear I think.

please put the brand of that resin down for us, and a pic of the box if you still have it!

[DocOutlands]

I'll make sure and get to that this evening, Spud.  I saved the box specifically to take pics of it. 

[Clonehead]

Nice pics, buddy. That was interesting how the fusion lamp resin shrank.. turned out good though.

[DocOutlands]

Something I'm tempted to try out is the use of "suncatcher" paints on particular clear pieces, like the fusion lamp.  The "suncatcher" paints are intended to be transparent/translucent, so painting up a fusion lamp in a standard opaque paint for its body and reflector fins and then painting up the illumination core in a transparent paint would be pretty neat.  Especially if the base were left unpainted and then an LED or other mini-light were set below it so as to provide the illusion of light from the lamp!  Another approach would be to replicate the computer screen on the Lobot terminal and goggles on soooooo many helmets...

Technical note, this mix is an epoxy resin, as opposed to the urethane resins most of us are using.  Dunno if that makes a difference to anyone, but there it is.

[DocOutlands]

You know I'm planning to make a 2-part mold for the R2 head so I can better copy it as a BAD dome.  So I'm searching for what works as a mold-release agent to avoid coughing up $10 for a SINGLE OUNCE of branded release.  So far, I've run across this:

from http://www.fiberlay.com/howto/silicone.pdf
The final step before mixing the RTV rubber is to coat the entire mold box and pattern with a thin coat of petroleum jelly. This is an accepted mold release for RTV silicone.

Holy galloping sweetness!  I have some Vaseline for resizing neck-posts!  Now I just need to secure a second R2 BAD head (not an issue) to modify - assuming I take that route rather than just punching a channel in the mold.  I've got the Quick-set and Sculpey.  I need to find a piece of PVC pipe of ~2" diameter tomorrow to hold the parts as I make the mold and I'll have everything I need!  Then I can pop out R2 and R3 heads for as long as I have resin!  Then, while the first R3 head is curing, I can move on to making computer terminal molds!

I plan to keep looking for other mold release agents to separate the silicone - I'd prefer a spray for better coverage.

[spudafett]

doc I tried using vasoline as a mold releas and if you don't smooth it out to an almost nonexistant layer it causes problems with the mold...

I did read somewhere that you can take a spray bottle and fill it with water and then spoon in a scoop of vasaline, shake/stir it up in the water and then use it as a spray based release agent.... now.... I've only read this... and conceptually it doesn't make sense to me as vasoline is petrolium based and won't mix into water, it seperates... I have no idea how to make it work... but a spray would be best.

btw...  Testors model master's has red, blue, green, and yellow acrylic paints in clear.  I just picked up red, blue and green from Hobby Lobby... you should be able to get it there too.

[DocOutlands]

Yeah, I figured as much with the Vaseline.  Thanks for confirming it.  I'm wondering what else would serve the purpose of keeping the second pour of silicone from sticking to itself.  Might try talcum powder.  Cooking spray, maybe?  All we have is butter-flavored, tho, and that would make me hungry...

[Clonehead]

MMMMMMMMMMMMMM buttered silicon.
doc, I have a bottle of mold release agent that I would probably give to you that I got with my very first resin and quick set package. It was years ago so no telling about shelf life and there is always the fact that it could be anywhere down in Clonehead's catacombs "my basement" by now.

[DocOutlands]

Well if it showed up on my doorstep, I'd sure put it to work!!   

Found another nugget of info, this time from http://users.lmi.net/drewid/silicone_faq.html, labeling itself as "An alt.sculpture faq by Christopher Pardell addressing the following topics," so it should be folks who know how to make do with what they have.

Your sculpture may need to be sealed so that the silicone won't sink into the surface. If in any doubt, do a test on a small section to determine if it tends to stick. If the answer is yes, then use either mold soap or a spray release that is NOT SILICONE-BASED - teflon spray will work.

Teflon spray...I'm thinking I might have gotten some once for pinewood derby lube?  Anyway, I betcha one of the local parts-houses has some.  I gotta make a run into town tomorrow for stamps, so I'll also be stopping to nab another Wioslea for the R2 head and will check on teflon sprays.

This is heady stuff!